Deprecated: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is deprecated, use preg_replace_callback instead in /home/thinksilly/www/blog/frankliew/wp-includes/formatting.php on line 82
I trust you’ve all seen the first half of this update on my HB blog. This one is a little more tech focused, for those wanting to get more into the details of Bruce, our ‘67 Honda S800 restoration project. For a quick rundown, we’ve started to go through the car with a fine-tooth comb and begun taking parts off for replacement and recondition.
The heart of the car; the 791cc 10000rpm rev happy, quad-carb, roller bearing crank, alloy block motor. Surprisingly to everybody involved, the motor started up on first crank on 98RON gas after we reconnected the fuel system and cleaned out the 20+ year old fuel and sediment in the tank. The factory fuel pump worked beautifully, which I was rather surprised at. Unfortunately there is a slight miss in one of the cylinders, and a small exhaust leak from the exhaust manifold, pictured below.
A close-up of the exhaust extractors. Absolutely tiny, but sadly, I forgot to take measurements of the pipe diameter. Put it this way, I can easily curl an my index finger finger around the entire pipe.
The extractors however seem to have been dinged around a bit during its lifetime, and it doesn’t use a gasket or sealant to seal itself to the cylinder head, just a flange that is sandwiched in by the mounting plate. Somewhere along the line you can see the flange got a bit twisted, and the previous owner attempted to straighten it up and seal it tighter with some wire. It’s not a big issue however, a few tweaks and a couple of hammers should be able to fix up the flange. Once the exhaust leak is fixed, we can then get onto pinpointing the cause of the miss - perhaps a fouled plug or a faulty lead.
Other observations - check out where the pedal box meets the master cylinders. Old school.
Time to move onto the body. Look at how thick the pre-safety-glass era window is. It’s about twice as thick as most cars nowadays.
The only problematic rust spot on the car, apparently a common sight after we spoke to others who have restored these Honda S cars. It’s not a huge issue though, since the car was manufactured before the era of aluminium and alloy panels, there’s a lot of steel to work with in that area. Nothing a smart fabbie with a cutting wheel and a welder can’t fix.
There’s going to be a lot of body work involved in this project - especially seeing the crap paint job the car received at the hands of the original NZ owner. Look at all that overspray and peel. It looked like whoever mastered this spray can job didn’t even bother sanding down the car before painting it. A nice media blast should be able to sort it out and take the car back down to bare steel.
Perhaps the most perished seal on the car - the boot, hardly surprisingly for a 43 year old car. It’s going to be interesting trying to find a replacement for this.
Time to move onto the bottom half of the car. The biggest concern to the project so far has been the brakes - sitting in a shed for 20 years without the car moving certainly didn’t help.
Fortunately, there’s no play in the tie-rod end, but the dust boot has long disintegrated. In fact, we can’t tell whether it’s just old grease around the tie rod end, or grease + the disintegrated dust boot combined in one swamp-thing like muck. The same goes for the lower ball joint; an indiscernable mess of grease and rubber. Universal dust boots and a blob of new grease on the way.
The body mounts are also a bit of a concern as well. 43 years on they’re not looking the greatest. It shouldn’t be hard to find modern polyurethane replacements from universal applications. Need four of these.
Moving slightly upwards now to the shocks, both the upper and lower bushes look like they really need a replacement. Haven’t tested the shock itself though, so we removed it to send it off to specialists.
I can’t remember whether this was the brake, or the clutch master cylinder. Everybody knows brake fluid is corrosive (acidic). Now imagine brake fluid that’s been sitting inside a master cylinder for 20 years. Here you go. Off to the reconditioners for an evaluation… or into a bin.
I was completely flabbergasted when I saw this. Sure, the dust seals have perished with age, but some brain-donor somewhere along the line decided it was a good idea to stick a brake pad in back to front. (backing plate facing rotor). Wut. A recondition awaits.
The result - it *may* have something to do with this. Look how thin the brake rotors are. They’re going to have a fun time trying to find a replacement.
Other small tidbits include the rear brake shoes, wheel cylinders, and this - a perished fuel filler pipe. No biggie finding a universal application to match it up to. Well, it’s either that, or we’re just going to have to jam the fuel nozzle down a bit further than normal at the gas station.
And just for S&G (shits and giggles), here’s a small comparison to show you just how small some of the parts on the car were, measured against the tried and tested international-standard “disposable plastic fork” scale -
Front brake calliper.
Front brake rotor.
It’s like building a car for a midget.
With all the parts off, they’ve been sent to a range of specialists to evaluate and recondition/replace the parts, with focus most importantly on the braking system - with calliper rebuild kits, new seals, new pistons, new pads, new shoes, new wheel cylinders, new rotors, and new lines all on the cards.
The parting shot. One for the real geeks.
More on Bruce when we hear back from some suppliers.